Q. HOW SHOULD I PRIME MY CHIMNEY/FIREPLACE FOR A FIRE?

A. Seems like a simple thing, but it's so easy for something to go wrong. We will break this down to a simple series of steps. Follow each step for the best and safest fire.

1. Make certain the chimney is drafting upwards. Many chimneys will reverse (cold air falls) when not in use. Open the damper of your fireplace and/or the door of your stove..if you feel a cold draft coming down then your chimney has reversed itself. Keep this in mind and follow step #4 below in order to reverse your chimney.

2. Set the Kindling. Yes, everyone does this differently. Here’s the best way. Place firestarters, fatwood or crumpled newspaper (3 or 4 sheets balled up fairly tightly) on the floor or grate of your stove. Place small kindling over the paper or starter...TIP --the more dry, small kindling you have--the easier and better your fire will start. Crisscross the kindling so there is plenty of air space in between each piece. Wood that is packed too tight will not burn properly.

3. Set more Wood. Set larger wood on top of the kindling, and continue to set larger and larger pieces on top until the stove is over 2/3 full. If it’s an open fireplace, set one or two layers of crisscrossed or spaced wood on top of the kindling.

4. Countdown. If you determined in step #1 that your chimney was drafting upwards, go ahead an light the newspaper or starter. If you think your chimney has reversed, do the following: If it’s an open fireplace, place a piece of balled up newspaper up through the damper..it should stay in place by itself. Light this piece of paper, and watch it --it should warm up the chimney and get sucked upwards. If it does, immediately light the starter or newspaper under your fire..the heat will then warm the chimney quickly so it will not reverse again. If you have a stove, place the piece of balled newspaper as high up in the stove toward the chimney (usually above the baffle plate) as you can get it. Then light it—it should get sucked upwards and reverse the chimney with it’s warmth.

5. Ignition. Assuming that you’ve lit the starter, stand back for a moment and watch the fire do it’s thing. If you have a stove, keep the draft control and damper fully open at first, in fact it may help to keep the stove door slightly open for the first few moments until the fire is caught.

6. Blastoff. The fire should quickly catch and spread through your load of wood. Don’t make the mistake of closing your air control or damper soon after you start the fire. it may look good, but until you’ve warmed the stove up, warmed the chimney and established a good bed of coals (red embers), your fire is not really at critical mass.

7. Mission Accomplished. Keep the fire going and keep these simple points in mind.

• Always keep a “flame” on your fire - a smoking or smoldering fire is a cold and inefficient fire..and also produces pollutants and creosote (tar in the chimney)

• Add more wood before the fire gets too low...this will assure the continuation of your hard-earned fire.

• Use Dry, Seasoned wood - if your wood sizzles and refuses to light or burn it’s probably not ready for prime time --- store your wood in a dry place and cut and split it at least 8 months prior to burning.

Q. ARE CERTAIN TIMES OF YEAR BETTER THAN OTHERS FOR CHIMNEY CLEANING?

A. While we clean chimneys throughout the year, spring cleaning – right after the heating season is over – is best. Spring is also preferable because you won't have to wait long for an appointment, and any repairs can be more conveniently completed in the spring and summer.

Q. BRIEFLY DESCRIBE THE CHIMNEY-CLEANING PROCESS.

A. Most chimneys are cleaned from inside the house. This maxims dust control and minimizes mess. The walls of the fireplace are hand-scrubbed using wire brushes. Special brushes attached to flexible poles are used to clean the chimney flue. The sweep controls the length of the pole by sliding it inside the flue as necessary. At American Chimney, we are meticulous in this process, and make sure our vacuums catch every possible piece of debris.

Q. WILL YOU LEAVE A MESS IN MY HOME?

A. Actually, we leave your home exactly as we found it. Cleaning the chimney from inside your home controls any dispersion of dust. We lay out clean drop cloths in front of your fireplace, and our equipment never touches your floors. Our special vacuums collect all debris as we brush the chimney, so loose soot is immediately trapped.

Q. WHEN YOU INSPECT A CHIMNEY, WHAT ARE YOU EVALUATING AND WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR?

A. First, we look at what type of chimney you have. Next, we check to see if the liner is appropriate for your type of chimney and for the size of the flue. We review the kinds of fuel you burn in fireplaces, stoves and central heaters. We determine whether construction, clearances, installations, and furnace/water heater connections are code compliant...and we check to make sure you have a chimney cap.

Q. EXPLAIN WHY A CHIMNEY CAP IS IMPORTANT – AND WILL IT PREVENT MY FLU FROM VENTING PROPERLY?

A. Designed to code, properly fitted and sized, a chimney cap helps protect your home, preventing undesirable exterior elements from entering – rain, snow, birds and animals and debris cannot get through it. Professionally installed by American Chimney, the chimney cap may improve venting and can help eliminate some downdrafts.

Q. I THINK MY DAMPER MAY BE DAMAGED. CAN YOU REPAIR IT?

A. Sometimes. If your damper is just loose or lifted off the bracket, we can probably repair it. We call this "reseating." However, if your damper is dry and cracked, or missing parts, it needs to be replaced. Our replacement dampers are air tight, and securely installed on top of the chimney flue. In closed position, your new damper will help cut heat and air conditioning loss. In open position, your new damper has a built-in cap that keeps rain, snow, animals and debris from entering.

Q. WHAT DOES IT MEAN IF MY FIREPLACE SMOKES?

A. In order to guide smoke and gases up and out through the flue, your chimney must have proper "draft." Loosely defined, draft is the pressure that forces air into the fireplace and pushes the smoke out. The strength of that push depends on the difference between the air pressures in the house and in the chimney. When your fireplace is cold – and sometimes even with a fire in it – chilly, heavy air may flow downward into the living area, creating a low draft that stops gases from exiting the chimney. This is one possible cause of "smoking" in your living area.

Other possible causes of smoking require investigation by a certified chimney professional. Sometimes, smoking can be caused by a flue that is the wrong size for the appliance it serves; or by a chimney with too many bends; or by a connector pipe that is incorrectly sized or shaped. Smoking may also be the result of built-up soot or debris-clogged flues. If your house is so airtight that it restricts air exchange from the outdoors to feed the fire, this can also cause smoking. If other vents in the house allow too much air to escape, it creates low air pressure that can contribute to smoking. Smoking may also be due to an open, missing or improperly sealed clean-out door. Finally, wind blowing on your house can create negative pressure inside, and may affect the performance of your chimney.

Q. EDUCATE ME ABOUT CHIMNEY LINERS.

A. Your chimney liner plays a critical part in protecting your home from potential damage. Heat resistant and gas-tight, the most common liners are made of terrace cotta. If they crack or deteriorate, heat may possibly reach your chimney’s masonry or even the wood structure of your home, exposing your home to risk. The solution? Have American evaluate your current liner, and if necessary, install a stainless steel or aluminum liner that will eliminate most of these concerns.